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Pilbara Prospecting Supplies Karratha
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troopy getting hot

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Post by oneday Tue 23 Feb 2016, 6:07 am

i'm at a loss with the troopy as she hates going over 95ks on the open road without the temp guage going up to 3/4 and the TX valve gets warm and shuts down the air con.

last thing i'm going to try is a new bottom radiator hose to see if that may make a difference as this hose is the suction end to the motor/water pump.

maybe the original has gotten a bit soft and is starting to squeeze in.

regards
oneday
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Post by nightjar Tue 23 Feb 2016, 6:33 am

Ray,
Positive start with bottom hose.
Have you renewed the thermostat?
Do you have thermo fans fitted in front of radiator, are they working and is the rotation correct?


Cheers
Peter
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Post by Flouro Tue 23 Feb 2016, 7:11 am

Hi Ray,

My cruzer does the same as yours overheats, I've tried lots of things, the last was coming back from Shark Bay

We pulled up early at the Murchison River camping spot and I took out the aircon radiator and that got us home

The cooling fins at the bottom of the radiator were corrode(soft)so I am looking into buying a new one

My model is a hzj79 but it has been fitted with a hzj75 radiator ever since ive had it and they are 60mm shorter than the hzj79 one luckily it was a 4 row radiator

I first noticed this as we approached hills, it would start to rise and go down on the downhill run especially on a hot day

I am in the process of trying to locate a decent hzj79 radiator for it and hope this fixes it

Like you I have tried everything, fluid in the fan coupling hoses, I even read somewhere where lean running can make your car overheat as we also have a long term fuel problem where if we are running in hot weather and switch off I have actually melted lead battery terminals off trying to get fuel up to the engine...when it cools down its fine and running in cold weather...fine

Theres a bug in the system and its very annoying

Cheers Ron


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Post by boobook Tue 23 Feb 2016, 7:58 am

I have heard that a soft bottom rad. can collapse under pump suction but to me that indicates a flow restriction somewhere.
After all, with the thermostat open it is simply a coolant circulation around the block, hose to radiator, radiator, hose to pump and around again.
The fact that the system is under pressure should keep the hoses well inflated, it is (should be) equal around the system.
Should be easy enough to check/observe the bottom hose at the point of overheat and the engine revving around 2000
Other than the thermo fan (which are a PITA), my thinking is a few sludged up radiator tubes.
mike
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Post by oneday Tue 23 Feb 2016, 7:59 am

NEW RADIATOR-REPLACED FLUID IN FAN, ROARING THROUGH-THERMOSTAT OUT, MODIFIED, REPLACED BRAND NEW-COOLANT-ETC ETC

when I get back will replace the bottom hose otherwise it can only be the air con condenser.

cowling is fitted. buggered if I know.

just have to drive slow.

wave as u go by.

regards
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Post by boobook Tue 23 Feb 2016, 9:34 am

Another thought I had is injection pump timing.

Fairly sure that a degree or two retarded can make the motor hot.
I know the pump has an advance mechanism, but if it starts off retarded it is still that much retarded all the way through.

One tooth out on the timing belt means around 5 deg. either way also the pump alignment marks can be checked on the pump flange/timing case.
I know a retarded diesel is very quiet at idle, advanced more rattly.

When my 1hz went through an over heating episode (only with a tail wind!) a tube of silicon in the fan clutch fixed it.
mike
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Post by Banjo Tue 23 Feb 2016, 9:43 am

Can be a real bugger and get real expensive chasing issues like this, lucky your loaded huh
I read once where a guy was chasing a similar issue and replaced everything twice and then found out his second radiator was a dud as well. A lot of guys are getting caught out with these new shiny alloy radiators as well.

A Gates full hose kit with heater hoses etc is only a 100 bucks or so, maybe pressure test the system after replacing the bottom hose ?
How confident are you with the fan clutch since the rebuild ?

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Post by nightjar Tue 23 Feb 2016, 1:38 pm

Ray,
You haven't mentioned whether you have an additional electric thermo fan. My old shortie had heating problems and after fitting a fan problem solved. Mainly used when aircon was on.


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Post by Gary Mc Tue 23 Feb 2016, 5:14 pm

Just finished sorting out the over heating problems with my NT 3.2 DID.
It would would only play up when towing or low range 4wd work when it was above low 40's

Just had too much crap mainly in the AC condenser limiting air flow through to the radiator, then if front of that is also the transmission cooler.. bugger of a job to clean it properly, pull the radiator out, replace transmission fluid ect. threw a higher flow thermostat in there while I was at it.

Was out Marble Bar way on the weekend and no more problems
Next job - rig up some fan cooling to stop the the GPZ charger and battery from over heating in the Pilbara summer !
Gary Mc
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Post by Moneybox Tue 23 Feb 2016, 6:25 pm

I have the same problem with the old Mazda T3500. I have to keep it at 90 Kph or below. I'm pretty sure my radiator core needs to be cleaned. It's been in there for about 100,000km so I guess it's due for a birthday.

Ray if you can't hear the extra fan noise when the temperature starts to go too high I'd be taking a look at the fan clutch.
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Post by Dozer Tue 23 Feb 2016, 8:15 pm

Ray, give me a ring and I will give you my thoughts if you wish.

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